Foundation Paper Piecing Tutorial

From Barb Gippe’s April 2018 Evening Presentation. The full version with additional tips and information is available in the Member’s Area.

Foundation Paper Piecing Supplies

Ruler
Rotary cutter
Cardstock or index card
Flat head pins or glue stick
Fabric, thread, sewing machine

Foundation Paper Piecing Instructions

You will sew the pattern in number order. Begin by taking the first fabric and attaching it to the unprinted side of the paper with either a flat head pin or glue stick. Ensure that the entire piece is covered, (in this case, section 1) including an additional 1/4″ margin.

 

 

Place your card stock or index card along the printed line on the pattern you will be sewing (in this case you will be sewing on the line between sections 1 and 2) and fold over the printed paper (printed sides together). Use your rotary cutter to trim the fabric 1/4″ from the edge of your paper.

 

Set fabric 2 on top of fabric 1, right sides together at the trimmed edge of fabric 1.

 

 

Make sure you have the fabric in the correct location. Test this by putting a pin in the two fabrics at a 1/4″ and flipping the fabric over as if it has been sewn. Make sure that fabric 2 covers all edges of the pattern, keeping in mind the 1/4″ margin.

Make sure your machine is set for a shorter stitch length and you have a 90/14 needle in.

 

 

Set your pattern on your machine, printed side up, ready to sew on the line between the two sections (in this case, you’ll be sewing on the line between 1 and 2.) Remember to sew 1 or 2 stitches before and after the line.

 

 

Open and press the right side of the fabrics.

 

 

Continue the same way with each new piece of fabric, sewing them in numerical order.

 

 

Tips For Joining Multiple Pieces

Some foundation paper piecing patterns are made up of multiple pieces that need to be joined together, this is the case with the July BOM block. 

 

Take the two pieces you will be joining and place them right sides together. Take a pin and stick it through the corner of one piece through the other other piece’s corner.

 

 

If necessary, reposition the pin until it is straight. When you begin sewing the pieces together, this ensures your pieces will join correctly.

 

 

Sew the pieces together along the edge line, or just use a 1/4″ seam.

June – Diamond Block

By Patty Heath

This month’s BOM is a great introduction to diamonds with a simple, modern block.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

 

 

Fabric A – Teal

5″ x 15″

Fabric B – Geometric Print

5″ x 15″

Fabric C – Coral

6″ x 10.25″
2.75″ x 18.75″

Fabric D – Gold

6″ x 10.25″
6″ x 18.75″

BLOCK INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1 – Cutting Instructions

Cut diamonds from Fabric A. Align the 60 degree line on your ruler with the bottom of the strip of fabric. Make a cut from the bottom corner and discard the triangle. reposition the ruler to the right 5.875” keeping the 60 degree line on the ruler even with bottom of the fabric strip. Make a cut on the left edge of the ruler to complete one diamond. Move the ruler once more to the right 5.875” and make another cut to complete a second diamond. Repeat from the beginning with Fabric B.

 

Step 2

Sew the diamond shapes together as shown in the photo. Press seams open being careful not to stretch the bias edges.

 

Step 3

Cut Fabric C and D rectangles diagonally as shown to create half rectangle triangles. Important note: If using a fabric with a discernible front and back, you must cut 2 of the 6×10.25″ pieces and cut them diagonally in opposite directions. 

Step 4

Mark the center of the long side of each half rectangle triangle and pin to the corresponding seam of the diamond block as shown. Sew and press seams open. Trim block to 10.50” X 18.50”.

Step 5

Sew remaining Fabrics C and D to the corresponding sides of the block. These pieces have been cut slightly larger to allow for trimming the finished block to 18.50” square.

 

On Instagram make sure to use #bouldermqgbom20 and tag us @bouldermqg

May – Orange Peel

By Rebecca Greco

This month’s BOM uses a variety of sizes of orange peel blocks to create a modern take on a traditional block. This block uses applique and can be done by hand or machine, whichever you prefer.

 

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Fabric A – background

Cut (6) 4.5″ squares (trim to 3.5″)
Cut (3) 7.5″ squares (trim to 6.5″)
Cut (2) 10.5″ squares (trim to 9.5″)

 

Fabric B – large orange peel

Cut (2) from template 1

 

Fabric C – medium orange peel

Cut (3) from template 2

 

Fabric D – small orange peel

Cut (6) from template 3

 

 

BLOCK INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1 – Prepare Orange Peel Units

Using the orange peel applique tutorial, make 2 large 9.5″ orange peel blocks, 3 medium 6.5″ orange peel blocks, and 6 small 3.5″ orange peel blocks.

Step 2 – Layout Block

Layout the block as shown below.

 

Step 3 – Block Assembly

Sew the quarter circle units together into rows.
Sew the rows together into the block.
Trim block to 18.5″

 

 

On Instagram make sure to use #bouldermqgbom20 and tag us @bouldermqg

Orange Peel Applique Tutorial

By Rebecca Greco

Orange Peel Applique Supplies

Thin, fusible interfacing
Scissors and//or rotary cutter
Fabric, thread, sewing machine

 

Orange Peel Applique Instructions

For the BOM, we will be using three sizes of orange peel blocks. This tutorial is for applique, but there are also templates if you would prefer to piece the block. You can use Anne’s basic curved piecing tutorial from last month for that.
I had never done orange peels before and wasn’t loving any of the methods I had found. Then I watched this video from Jenny of Missouri Star Quilt.

 

Step 1 – Make Templates

Print Template 2 at 100% (be sure the 1″ scale square on the template actually measures 1 inch when printed. Some printers don’t print a true 100%. Carefully cut out the templates on the printed lines. The largest orange peel will print on two pages. You can either tape together the pieces, or fold your fabric in half and use half of the printout.

Step 2 – Cut Fabrics

Cut one square of your backing fabric about 3/4″ larger than your final piece. After we will trim down the block, but this gives you room for error and ensures you will have enough space for your seam allowance.
Using the template, cut an orange peel from both the fabric and the interfacing. I just cut it out with scissors.

 

 

Step 3 – Sew the Orange Peel

Layer the orange peel fabric right side against the adhesive side of the interfacing. Sew a 1/4″ seam around the whole peel.

Step 4 – Cut Interfacing

Use scissors to carefully cut a slit into the interfacing. Make sure you pull the interfacing away from the fabric so you don’t accidentally cut the fabric. Increase the slit side as much as necessary to create a hole to turn the fabric.

Step 5 – Turn Fabric

Pull the fabric through the hole in the interfacing to turn it right side out. Use a chopstick, pen, or other tool to help get all the points.

Step 6 – Iron to Backing Fabric

Using the interfacing instructions, iron the orange peel onto your backing fabric.

Step 7 – Applique to Backing Fabric

Use your preferred applique method. I used machine applique, but this would be a great hand stitching project.

Step 8 – Trim Block

I used a small square quilting ruler and lined the diagonal along the orange peel. Make sure there is 1/4″ seam allowance on each side of the orange peel.

 

April – Drunkard’s Path

By Anne Deister
This month’s BOM uses two different Drunkard’s Path blocks (as described in the Skill Builder tutorial) to create a modern, asymmetrical layout. The layout challenges you to match curves when aligning blocks and to have some curves come right to the edge of the block while others have negative space around them and float within the space.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Using Templates 1 and 2 provided in the Drunkard’s Path skill builder tutorial, cut the following pieces.

Fabric A – dark blue/violet

Cut (2) 6.5″ squares
Cut (4) from template 1B
Cut (3) from template 2B

Fabric B – yellow

Cut (2) from template 1A
Cut (1) from template 2A

Fabric C – orange

Cut (1) from template 1A
Cut (1) from template 2A

Fabric D – pink/purple

Cut (1) from template 1A
Cut (1) from template 2A

BLOCK INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1 – Sew quarter circle units

Using the Drunkard’s Path Skill Builder tutorial, sew the quarter circle units together.

Step 2 – Layout Block

Layout the quarter circle units and the full squares as shown below.

Step 3 – Block Assembly

Sew the quarter circle units together into rows.
Sew the rows together into the block.
Trim block to 18.5″

QUILT LAYOUT

This block could be made in multiples to make a modern quilt. The illustration below demonstrates one possible quilt layout. The blocks are all identical. They are simply rotated to create a playful arrangement that produces a feeling of movement and interesting negative spaces.

There are so many things you can do with Drunkard’s path blocks. I hope you will explore more ideas on your own. I have a Quilt Along on my blog that uses the Drunkard’s Path block. Those posts can be found here.  Look for number 5 on piecing for another basic tutorial on making the Drunkard’s Path block.

On Instagram make sure to use #bouldermqgbom20 and tag us @bouldermqg

Curved Piecing Tutorial

By Anne Deister

Basic Curved Piecing Supplies

Templates. There are 2 template pages. One for each version.
Printer
Cardstock (recommended)
Paper scissors
Fabric scissors
Fabric, thread, sewing machine.
Quilters ruler and rotary cutter

 

Basic Curved Piecing Instructions

For the BOM, we will be using templates to make two different versions of the Drunkard’s Path block.
Version 1 is the more traditional form of the block where the quarter circle does not extend all the way to the edge of the block. It looks like this.

 

 

Version 2 is a quarter circle that fills the entire block. This version is made with extra background fabric and is then trimmed to size. When these blocks are sewn together, the quarter circle will go right to the edge of the block. It looks like this.

 

 

The following instructions cover the basics for making Version 2 of the Drunkard’s Path block using Template 2. The same steps are followed for Version 1/Template 1, however there is no need to trim.

 

Step 1 – Make Templates

Print Template 2 at 100% (be sure the 1″ scale square on the template actually measures 1 inch when printed. Some printers don’t print a true 100%. Carefully cut out the templates on the printed lines.

 

 

Step 2 – Trace Templates onto Fabric

Transfer template shapes onto fabric by tracing around the templates using a pencil or pen. These lines will not show so don’t worry about what pen you use as long as you can see the marks.

 

Step 3 – Cutting Instructions 

Using scissors or a rotary cutter, cut both template pieces from your fabric.

 

 

Step 4 – Marking/Pinning 

Fold both the quarter circle and leg pieces in half to make a crease in the middle. Finger press or use an iron so you can easily see the crease.

 

 

Make two additional creases by folding each end in to match the crease in the middle.

 

 

With the quarter circle on the bottom, position the background piece on top, right sides together, aligning the center crease marks. Pin in place.

 

 

Match the other two crease marks and pin in place. Match the ends and pin in place. Add additional pins if you want. I prefer to add another pin in between each crease.

 

 

Step 5 – Sewing

With the background piece on top, sew using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Take it slow and ease around the curve. Lift your presser foot if necessary to smooth the fabric to avoid taking tucks. Press the seam toward the quarter circle for Template 2.

 

Step 6 – Trimming

For Version 2, trim to 6.5″ by aligning your ruler so there is a 1/4″ allowance beyond the edge of the curve.

 

Repeat the same steps for Template 1. This block is to size with no additional trimming needed.
The finished trim size should be 6.5″.